From Recipes Note: Every week, SE intern Chichi Wang will be discussing some aspect of Asian cookery, with an emphasis on the traditional, underappreciated, or misunderstood elements thereof. “While I’m amenable to the idea that somewhere out there, someone is baking one mean lasagna with tofu layered in the middle, I’m willing to bet that the best tofu dishes are the traditional ones.” I have a sneaking suspicion about the state of tofu in this country. I suspect that t